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TL;DR
The #1 cause is construction debris trapped in faucet aerators and shower heads — remove and clean them first. Also check that all shut-off valves are fully open and the pressure regulator is set to 50–60 PSI.
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Read More →You just closed on a beautiful new home in Apex, moved in all your boxes, and turned on the shower — only to get a trickle. It doesn't make sense. Everything is brand new. The pipes are new. The fixtures are new. So why does the water pressure feel like it belongs in a house three times its age?
This is one of the most common calls we get from homeowners in rapidly growing Apex communities like Beaver Creek and Bella Casa. And the answer is almost never "your house is broken." It's usually a combination of factors that are easy to fix once you know where to look.
There's a common assumption that new means perfect. But the reality is that new construction plumbing is assembled quickly, inspected at a specific point in the building process, and then buried behind walls before you ever turn a faucet. A lot can go wrong between the rough-in inspection and the day you move in.
Here are the most common culprits.
This is the number one cause we find. During construction, small amounts of solder flux, pipe shavings, joint compound, sand, and even drywall dust get into the water lines. These particles settle at aerators, shower heads, and valve cartridges, partially blocking flow.
The fix: Remove your faucet aerators and shower heads and check for debris. You'll often find small chunks of material caught in the screens. Clean them out, reinstall, and test again. If the problem persists, the debris may be lodged deeper in the valve cartridges.
Every new home has a main shut-off valve, and most fixtures have individual shut-off valves underneath sinks and behind toilets. During construction and final inspections, these valves get turned on and off repeatedly. It's surprisingly common for one or more to be left partially closed.
Pro Tip: Check every shut-off valve in the house. Turn each one fully clockwise (closed), then fully counterclockwise (open). For gate valves, make sure they're turned all the way open — even a quarter-turn closed can noticeably reduce pressure. Don't forget the main valve near where the supply line enters your home.
Most new homes in Apex are equipped with a pressure reducing valve where the main water line enters the house. This device protects your plumbing from excessively high municipal pressure. But the default factory setting is often around 45-50 PSI, which feels noticeably weak — especially if you're used to 60-70 PSI.
Your PRV is usually a bell-shaped brass device on the main line, often near the water heater or where the supply enters the crawl space or garage. It has an adjustment bolt on top. Turning it clockwise increases pressure.
When to Call a Pro: While you can adjust a PRV yourself, setting pressure too high (above 80 PSI) can damage fixtures, blow out supply lines, and void warranties. A plumber can measure your current pressure with a gauge, adjust the PRV to an optimal 60-65 PSI, and verify it holds steady. If you're noticing leaks or pressure fluctuations, a professional pressure test is especially worthwhile.
Apex has been one of the fastest-growing towns in the Triangle for over a decade. Entire subdivisions in Beaver Creek are going up simultaneously, and the municipal water infrastructure doesn't always keep pace with demand. During peak usage — early mornings, evenings, weekends when everyone is watering lawns — pressure at the street can drop significantly.
This is particularly noticeable in newer developments on the outer edges of the distribution network, where homes in Bella Casa and other growing neighborhoods are furthest from pumping stations.
The fix: If your pressure is consistently low at all times of day, the issue is likely inside your home. If it's only low during peak hours, you may be dealing with a municipal supply limitation. A pressure gauge test at different times of day can help confirm this. In some cases, a booster pump is the right solution.
Some builders run the minimum pipe diameter allowed by code — typically 3/4-inch for the main line and 1/2-inch for individual fixtures. In a smaller home, this works fine. But in a larger home with multiple bathrooms, a kitchen island, a laundry room, and outdoor hose bibs, those minimum-sized pipes can't deliver adequate flow when more than one or two fixtures run simultaneously.
This is a design issue, not a defect. If you only notice low pressure when multiple fixtures run at the same time — like showering while the dishwasher runs — undersized supply lines may be the cause.
If a whole-house water softener or filtration system was installed during construction, it can restrict flow if it wasn't sized properly for your home's demand or if the bypass valve was left partially engaged.
Before calling anyone, work through this quick checklist:
If cleaning aerators and opening valves solves the problem, you're done. If not, you've gathered valuable diagnostic information that will help a plumber pinpoint the issue quickly.
If your home is still under the builder's warranty period (typically one year for plumbing), many of these issues — especially debris in pipes, improperly set PRVs, and partially closed valves — should be warranty items. Document the issue with photos and pressure readings before submitting a warranty claim.
Normal residential water pressure is between 40-80 PSI, with 50-65 PSI being the comfortable range for most people. You can buy a simple pressure gauge that threads onto a hose bib for under $15 at any hardware store. Screw it on, turn the spigot fully open, and read the gauge.
Low pressure itself won't damage plumbing, but it can indicate a partially closed valve that creates turbulence and wear, or a failing PRV that could eventually let a pressure spike through. It also makes water heaters and appliances less efficient.
Only if you've ruled out all other causes and confirmed that the incoming municipal pressure is genuinely low. A booster pump adds complexity and maintenance, so it should be a last resort, not a first fix. A plumber can help you determine if it's warranted after testing your system.
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