You made the switch to tankless. The promise was simple: unlimited hot water, lower energy bills, a unit that lasts 20 years. And for a while, it delivered. Then one morning, mid-shower, the water drops to ice cold for five seconds before heating back up. Or worse — it goes cold and stays cold until you turn the faucet off and back on.
This is the number one complaint we hear from tankless water heater owners across Cary. The technology works. But the gap between what's marketed and what's required for reliable daily performance is wider than most homeowners expect.
The Cold Water Sandwich Effect
The most common cause of that mid-shower cold burst has a name: the cold water sandwich. Here's the sequence that creates it.
You turn on the shower. Hot water that was already sitting in the pipes from a previous use flows out first — it feels normal. Then the water that was sitting between the heater and the fixture arrives. This slug of water never passed through the heater during the current demand cycle. It's cold. After that cold slug passes, freshly heated water from the tankless unit arrives, and the temperature stabilizes.
The cold water sandwich is most noticeable in homes where the tankless unit is far from the fixture — a common layout in larger homes throughout Preston and other Cary neighborhoods where the water heater sits in the garage and the master bath is on the opposite end of the house.
There's no mechanical failure here. It's a physics and plumbing layout issue. But that doesn't make it less annoying.
Potential solutions:
- A small buffer tank (2 to 5 gallons) installed after the tankless unit eliminates the sandwich by mixing the cold slug with stored hot water
- A recirculation pump keeps hot water moving through the pipes, so there's no cold water sitting in the line
- A thermostatic mixing valve can help smooth temperature fluctuations at the fixture
Pro Tip: If the cold water sandwich only happens first thing in the morning or after the system has been idle for hours, a recirculation system with a timer or motion sensor is usually the most cost-effective fix. It runs the pump only when you're likely to need hot water, avoiding the energy waste of continuous circulation.
Flow Rate Limitations
Every tankless water heater has a minimum flow rate — the amount of water that must pass through the unit before the burner ignites. For most residential tankless heaters, this threshold is between 0.4 and 0.75 gallons per minute (GPM).
Here's where it gets tricky. Low-flow showerheads, which are standard in most Cary homes built in the last 15 years, typically deliver 1.5 to 2.0 GPM. That's fine for a single fixture. But when you turn the flow down — maybe you're just rinsing conditioner out of your hair and you don't need full pressure — the flow rate can drop below the minimum activation threshold. The burner shuts off. Cold water.
This also explains why some homeowners experience cold water when someone else in the house opens a faucet. The total flow splits between fixtures. If the shower was already running at a moderate flow and someone turns on the kitchen sink, the shower's share of the flow may dip below the heater's minimum, causing the burner to cycle off and back on.
Many homeowners in Amberly and the newer sections of Kildaire Farms upgraded to tankless units when building or renovating, but the low-flow fixtures throughout the home create borderline flow conditions that trigger this cycling behavior.
Mineral Buildup and Scale
North Carolina municipal water isn't classified as "hard" by national standards, but Cary's water supply — sourced from Jordan Lake — contains enough dissolved minerals to cause problems inside a tankless water heater over time.
The heat exchanger in a tankless unit operates at much higher temperatures than a traditional tank. Water passes over concentrated heat surfaces, and even moderate mineral content precipitates out and coats those surfaces. Scale buildup acts as an insulator, reducing heat transfer efficiency and causing the unit to work harder to reach the set temperature.
As scale accumulates:
- The unit takes longer to reach temperature
- Temperature output becomes inconsistent
- The unit may throw error codes related to overheating (because the heat exchanger can't transfer heat efficiently)
- In severe cases, the unit shuts down entirely as a safety measure
Most manufacturers recommend annual flushing with food-grade white vinegar to dissolve mineral deposits. This involves running vinegar through the heat exchanger for 45 to 60 minutes using a small pump. It's a maintenance step that many tankless owners don't know about — and skipping it for several years can lead to performance problems that feel like a system failure.
When to Call a Pro: If your tankless unit is displaying error codes, shutting down mid-use, or delivering noticeably less hot water than it used to, schedule a tankless water heater inspection. Scale buildup, gas valve issues, and heat exchanger degradation all require professional diagnosis. Continuing to run a scaled-up unit can cause permanent damage to the heat exchanger — the most expensive component in the system.
Gas Line Sizing Issues
This is the root cause that almost nobody checks until everything else has been ruled out. Gas-fired tankless water heaters require significantly more gas flow than traditional tank heaters. A standard 40-gallon tank water heater uses about 40,000 BTUs. A whole-home tankless unit requires 150,000 to 200,000 BTUs.
If your gas line wasn't upsized when the tankless unit was installed — and in many retrofit installations in Cary, it wasn't — the unit may not receive enough gas to fire at full capacity. It works fine for a single fixture at moderate flow. But when demand increases (multiple fixtures, high flow rate, cold incoming water in winter), the gas supply can't keep up, and the unit either reduces its output or shuts down.
Winter makes this worse. Incoming water temperature in Cary drops from the mid-70s in summer to the low 40s in January. The heater has to work dramatically harder — raising water temperature by 70 degrees instead of 30 — and that requires maximum gas flow. If the gas line is undersized, winter is when you'll feel it most.
Homes in Lochmere and MacGregor Park that converted from tank to tankless without a gas line upgrade are particularly susceptible to this problem during cold snaps.
When Multiple Issues Stack Up
In practice, many homeowners deal with a combination of these factors. A unit with some scale buildup, connected to an undersized gas line, serving low-flow fixtures in a large home will perform differently than a properly sized, well-maintained system in a compact floor plan.
The diagnostic approach matters:
- Check the basics first — is the unit flushed annually? When was the last maintenance?
- Measure actual flow rates — are your fixtures delivering enough GPM to keep the burner engaged?
- Review the installation — was the gas line sized for the tankless unit's BTU requirements?
- Evaluate the layout — how far is the unit from the fixtures, and would a recirculation system help?
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I flush my tankless water heater?
In the Cary area, annual flushing is recommended. If you notice any decline in performance — longer wait times, temperature fluctuations, or error codes — flush sooner. Homes with water hardness above 7 grains per gallon may benefit from flushing every 6 months.
Can I flush the tankless unit myself?
Yes, with the right equipment. You'll need a submersible pump, two hoses, a 5-gallon bucket, and 3 to 4 gallons of food-grade white vinegar. The process takes about an hour. Your owner's manual has specific instructions for isolating the unit and connecting the flush kit. If you're not comfortable working with gas appliances, have a professional handle it.
Is my tankless water heater too small for my house?
Sizing depends on two factors: the maximum flow rate (GPM) you need simultaneously and the temperature rise required. In winter, when incoming water is 45°F and you want 120°F output, you need a 75-degree rise. Most residential tankless units can deliver 3 to 5 GPM at that rise. If your household regularly runs more simultaneous hot water fixtures than that, the unit may be undersized.
Should I go back to a tank water heater?
Not necessarily. Most tankless performance issues are solvable with proper maintenance, correct sizing, and appropriate plumbing modifications. However, if your home has fundamentally incompatible plumbing (severely undersized gas line, extreme distance from fixtures, very high simultaneous demand), a high-efficiency tank or hybrid heat pump water heater may be a better fit.
How long should a tankless water heater last?
With proper maintenance including annual flushing, a quality tankless unit should last 15 to 20 years. Without maintenance, scale buildup and component stress can reduce that lifespan to 8 to 12 years — not much longer than the tank heater you replaced.
